Einhard's Basilica

We made it back to the car after leaving Michelstadt's medieval center and I sighed deeply. The town was lovely, but extensive scaffolding ruined the main square and my hopes of lovely photos of the Rathaus. And again, being the middle of winter, the whole atmosphere walking around the town was extremely subdued. I opened the guide book I had brought with me to see if there was anything else we should see before we left for home and it mentioned that just a few minutes away was a basilica and a small castle. "Why not?" I said to myself.

Making that little detour made our day trip worthwhile.

This photo I found on-line shows the structure of Einhard's Basilica better than any of mine. The church had been used as a hospital and then in the 17th century as a barn, until 1873 when someone realized this old church being used to store hay and house animals, was actually Carolingian. It wasn't just a few hundred years old, it was a thousand years old, having been built in 824-827.

Einhard, a Frankish scholar who was a dedicated servant and biographer of Charlemagne, had the basilica built in the early 800s.

Anaëlle looking to see if we can explore the chambers underneath the church

In the passageways underneath the church after having jumped down to the muddy entrance to the basement.

After the completion of the basilica, Einhard sent a servant, Ratleic, to Rome to find holy relics for the new building. Once in Rome, Ratleic, with the help of a Roman deacon with a reputation as a relics-swindler, robbed a catacomb of the bones of Saints Marcellinus and Peter and brought them back to Michelstadt. Marcellinus, a priest, and Peter, an exorcist, died in the year 304, beheaded in Rome.

We were surprised to find this display in a random room amid dark passageways. Had I time and a German-English dictionary, I could no doubt tell you more about Einhard and his basilica.

One the relics were entombed in the church, Einhard's servants began experiencing nightmares and the relics “sweated blood,” making Einhard think that this arrangement was not a good one. He moved himself, his wife, the relics and his seat to to a different city, now known as Seligenstadt, which became a pilgrimage site with a new, bigger basilica. Once established there, the relics proved to be miracle workers.

Entering the church sanctuary

Inside the bare sanctuary.  The archways along the sides used to be doorways but were filled in during the 14th century.

Architectural detail

A last look back. I was very happy. Much as I enjoy touring ornate Gothic churches, I find it just as enjoyable exploring these extremely old, simple pre-Gothic churches.