Friday, April 9, 2010

Brugge Trip: The Burg and Basilica of the Holy Blood

Our original plan for the rest of Spring Break was to drive to Brugge, Belgium and then over to Amsterdam, the Netherlands. Only after we planned it out did I realize that combined with our trip a few days ago to Venice, Italy, we were doing a tour of European canal cities. That is what I was calling our Spring Break trip. In fact, Brugge is called "The Venice of the North." But with David's sore wrist, we decided to simplify the trip and just visit Brugge (or in French/English: Bruges). We left this morning for the 5-hour trip, drove north, had to stop when Becca was suddenly car sick and recovered just as quickly, entered the Netherlands, blinked and then entered Belgium. We were literally in the Netherlands for about 5 minutes. Can we truthfully say that we were in the Netherlands?

After parking the car at our hotel, we ventured out into the town. First stop was the Burg, one of the two major squares of Brugge. The Gothic Town Hall dates from 1376 and displays a number of historical and biblical statues on its façade.

The present statues are 19th century replacements of originally painted and gilded medieval figures, which were destroyed by French Revolutionaries.

Next to the Town Hall is the Chancellery, built in the middle of the 16th century. The gold statues crowning the building represent Law and include Justice, Moses and Aaron. Today the Chancellery houses the city archives. Pass under the open gable to enter the Blind Donkey Street (the name of an old inn that once stood on this location.)

Brugge coat of arms above the Chancellery doorway. The lion is most likely derived from the lion of the Counts of Vlaanderen and the the bear is derived from the symbol used by a chivalrous jousting society, which was very popular among the public.

My main objective in first going to the Burg was to visit this small 12th century church located in one corner, the Basilica of the Holy Blood. There was something inside we wanted to see and were worried that we may have missed the visiting hours, but we didn't.

The original 16th century façade was destroyed by French Revolutionaries. It was rebuilt with gilded statues of Flemish counts and their family members.

James, Emilie and I entered the church and joined the crowd climbing the beautiful wooden staircase to this upper chapel.

We stood in line waiting to gain entrance to that side of the chapel. What was everyone patiently waiting to see? None other than a vial containing some of the blood of Christ.

Popular legend asserts that the vial was taken to Brugge during the Second Crusade (1147–1149), by Thierry of Alsace, who returned from Jerusalem with the relic of the Holy Blood presented to him as the reward of his great services. Although the Bible never mentions Christ's blood being preserved, one of the apocryphal gospels asserts that Joseph of Arimathea preserved the Precious Blood after he had washed the dead body of Christ. Recent investigations have showed that the vial, made of rock crystal and dating back to the 11th or 12th century, was a Byzantine perfume bottle made in the area of Constantinople. It has never been opened since its arrival in Brugge, so no scientific tests have ever been done on the contents. Sign in the chapel didn't tout the vial's authenticity, rather described it as a testament to the power of faith.

James became increasingly uncomfortable as we stood in line and asked if could just wait for Emilie and me near the chapel's exit. The eerie atmosphere in the chapel and thinking about that vial had gotten to him.

When we reached the altar, Emilie and I made a donation to the church and mounted the steps to view the vial. This picture is from the internet, by the way. Picture taking was not forbidden, but right in front of the vial, it would have seemed disrespectful.  We were allowed to lay our hand on the glass vial and pause for a moment.

Back outside, I took more photos of the basilica while David and Micaela went inside.



This cheap stroller has been worth its weight in gold for us these three years in Europe.

Daring street performer who kept us entertained while we waited for Micaela and David.

The 17th century Provost House, an example of Flemish Baroque architecture with its step-gables.

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Grocery Shopping in Germany 101: Lesson 2 -- Shopping carts and Mineral Water

Within a 5-10 minute walk from my house is the grocery shopping trifecta: Aldi, Lidl and Rewe, all encircling a roundabout. Aldi and Lidl are similar discount supermarkets. There will be a future blog entry about them. And then there's Rewe, the closest store I have seen to an American supermarket and is considered here "the nice supermarket." I was talking to two neighbors on separate occasions when we had been here maybe a month and the talk turned to if I was OK with the food shopping here. I answered, "Yes, the Rewe is very similar to our supermarkets in the U.S." Both women tutted and said, "You have four kids! You should not be shopping at the Rewe! You should be going to Lidl or Aldi! They are much cheaper." That little reprimand stuck with me and I now only go to Rewe when I need to replenish our mineral water supply as you buy it by the crate and get a deposit back. Not so at the Lidl. Not sure about the Aldi now that I come to think about it.

So, in a previous entry, I told you about how you need to plan ahead more when you go food shopping in Germany. You need to bring shopping bags with you, or you will be paying for them at the store. If you don't speak the language well, be sure you have translated your shopping list ahead of time. And be sure you have a Euro coin in your pocket or a token from your Parksheibe. What's a Parksheibe, you may ask?

Here is a common type of parking sign in Germany. The sign is letting you know that you can park here for free, but only for 1 hour.  And you see that little blue rectangle with the arrow, the arc and the letter P?  That means you need to be sure to display your Parksheibe.

Here is the Parkscheibe that I keep in this little compartment on my dashboard. You turn the dial to the time you parked your car and that way, die Polizei can check to be sure you're not over the time limit.

You don't need the Parksheibe itself when shopping at a grocery store, but flip the Parksheibe over, and you'll  see it includes 4 shopping cart tokens. You need one of these, or a Euro, to get a shopping cart.

Here is our local Rewe.

I wanted to capture the parking situation, but it was later in the evening and the parking lot was rather empty. Parking is basically a simple one-way ring around the store. There is handicapped/mother's parking in front of the store, but you first have to circle all the way around the store to claim those spots and pray that there isn't anyone in front of you looking to do the same thing. There has been a few times during busy shopping days before a holiday when I have circled the crowded parking lots several times looking for a spot only have to return home because I couldn't find one and was too frustrated to sit and wait for one to become available.

Rewe is a bit different as it has 5 different types of shopping carts. With only 3 types of carts in each cart return, you have to be sure you return the cart right back where you got it. I learned that from experience, trying to return a cart to a different cart return. I had to walk it all the way back to the other cart return. Not a big deal, but it made me grumble.

You've probably seen this shopping cart system in the U.S. somewhere. Americans always complain about it, mostly, I think, because it's unexpected. "What do they think?" they will ask, "Do they think I actually want to steal this cart?" But they're missing the point. We all know what it like in American supermarket/Walmart/Target parking lots having to dodge shopping carts, or start to pull into a spot only to see that there's a cart left in the front of it. And it seems like no matter how many cart returns you put in a parking lot, people will just leave the carts sitting around elsewhere.

That problem is non-existent here. It all makes sense, really. It keeps the parking lot tidy (something Germans value) and makes finding a parking spot much easier. And don't worry: You'll get your Euro or token back when you return the cart.

Here's a month's supply of mineral water and Apfelschorle. David and I have always liked fizzy mineral water or Sprudel, but didn't drink it too much in the U.S. as the cans of La Croix had a metallic taste and bottles of Perrier were too expensive. It is the norm here to drink fizzy mineral water, but most brands sell mineral water with no bubbles (stille or pur), with some bubbles (medium) and with lotsa bubbles (spritzig). We prefer lotsa bubbles. Oh, and the water is naturally carbonated. We're already a bit worried that we may have a hard time getting our mineral water fix once we move back to the U.S.

Apfelschorle is a very popular soft drink that is a simple combination of fizzy mineral water and apple juice. I have been to cafés, ordered the kids Apfelschorle and instead of pulling out a bottle of Apfelschorle, the fellow behind the bar pulls out a bottle of mineral water and a bottle of apple juice and mixes it himself. Do you remember the Pepsi short-lived soft drink from the late 70s called Aspen? It was an apple soft drink, that didn't catch on. Is there an apple soft drink on the U.S. market now I wonder?

So, every cart has a little stand you unfold out at the back where one crate fits nicely. You constantly see people returning 5 or 6 crates of water/soft drinks/beer at a time. Right after I snapped this picture, a man stopped and called to me that I should really get the type of cart he was using -- more of a flatbed cart. "It's better for returning crates," he told me. I said thanks, but that I needed to buy some other things, too, and needed a regular cart. He went on to tell me what was on sale in the store. This always surprises me: Germans keep much more to themselves around strangers than Americans do, but I think he saw me taking pictures and thought he could help me out by offering a better solution.

The first time you push your German grocery cart, you'll say to yourself, "Wow!  It's so much easier to push and turn.  All four wheels turn!"  And then once you're cart is full, you'll say, "Yikes!  This cart is so much harder to manoeuver when it's full! I almost hit that car walking through the parking lot! Why do they make all four wheels swivel?"

Here's where you feed your crates of empty bottles into the return machine. There is also an individual bottle return up top.

When you're finished, hit the green button for your receipt that you can give to the cashier for immediate reimbursement or give it to her when you're paying for groceries and she'll deduct that amount from your total. And each of those crates gives you back a deposit of $4.50, so don't lose the slip!

The Rewe is set up similar to an American store, but what you will notice right away is that it is about 1/5 the size of a large American supermarket. Not nearly the selection (there's often only 1 brand of a certain item), but I usually find what I need.

The cereal/granola bar section. We recently watched The Hurt Locker and laughed heartily at the scene when the Iraq War vet is standing in front of huge row of cereal in the American supermarket, totally overwhelmed. As you can see, our selection here is not so extensive. And don't be fooled by the Kellogg's brand. It doesn't mean that the cereal is exactly like back home. Froot Loops, for instance, have very faded colors (that might be a good thing actually) and no flavor. It's like chewing crunchy bits of cardboard. Germans like muesli and have a good variety of flavors.

This is the only store where I have found Mini Zimtos, a cinnamon cereal James and Rebecca love.

The mix/packet section. Germans like cooking with packets. You can get packets for all sorts of soups, sauces, casseroles, and meat dishes.
They don't have nearly as much prepared foods sets here, like Hamburger Helper, but follow the recipe on this packet you'll end with a dish similar to a Hamburger-helper type of hamburger/potato/cheese casserole that the kids like. Instead of using freeze dried potato slices, I actually peel and slice fresh potatoes all by myself(!) and instead of adding a little bit of milk or water to make a creamy cheese sauce, I add real cream/milk and cheese. Imagine that.

One of my favorite mixes is this Mexican one. You add chicken, 1 onion, 1 red pepper and a can of black beans and it makes a yummy fajita-like filling for a tortilla. Add some cheddar and sour cream and mmmmm.....

One thing Americans complain about is that you can't find American-style gravy here. Germany tend to buy a "base" for their sauces, but make the sauce/gravy themselves. Around Thanksgiving/Christmas, people who have commissary privileges are always being hit up for gravy.

The American section. This section has tripled in size since we've been here. And no, we're not the only Americans in Liederbach. The latest survey showed that they were 60+ Americans here. Here's a price list for you:

Chocolate muffin mix: $7.30
Medium-size bottle of Hunt's BBQ sauce: $6.50
Heinz Sweet Relish: $6.37
8 S'more Poptarts: $9.03
Swiss Miss hot cocoa: $6.63
1 can of Campbell's Tomato Soup: $3.44

I usually try to find less-expensive German equivalents for our favorite things, but if the German item won't do, I'll splurge on the American products. The only things I buy from this shelf are the brownie mix, hot cocoa, relish and tomato soup. You can find German BBQ sauce, popcorn, mustard, and we find maple syrup somewhere else in the store. I'll buy a Reese's only for David's birthday or another special time.

This Rewe is only 1/5 the size of a typical American supermarket and 1/4 of this store is dedicated to beverages. Here is just one of the several rows of mineral water.

Another difference from American supermarkets can be found with the employees. The cashiers' name tags don't say "Hannah," "Monika" or "Maria." Instead you will see "Frau Schmidt," "Frau Müller" or "Frau Meyer." Things tend to be much more formal in public here.

One thing I didn't have the guts to photograph was the impulse shopping items at the check-out line. You see things like razors, candy, little cookbooks, lip balm, nail clippers and condoms.

Yes, condoms. Billy Boy is always smiling down on me as I put my groceries on the conveyor belt.

Back home, we store the crates in a holder in the basement. I chill the Apfelschorle in the fridge, but mineral water is best at room temperature.

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Why grown men shouldn't try skateboarding

Easter Sunday, David was showing a neighbor how James' ripstick (2-wheel flexible skateboard) works when he took a spill while taking a turn and landed on his left wrist. Over the three days, his sore wrist has swelled and changed colors 3 times.
Today David went to the Klinik and came home with a temporary cast. He had broken a bone in his wrist, but the doctors want to see what happens over the next week, so he doesn't have a hard cast. There is the chance he may need to have surgery to insert screws into his wrist to realign the pieces of bone.

Our plan for the rest of this week was to continue our tour of European canal cities by visiting Bruges, Belgium and Amsterdam. We decided to simplify and visit just one more city. As I had already visited both, I left the decision up to David. He chose Bruges, a 5-hour drive away. We have a few days to relax and plan our 2 days in Bruges, the little Venice of the North.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

From Venice back to Frankfurt

Back at Marco Polo Airport, we were just one group of many who were enjoying a last serving of gelato. After I took this picture, I said thoughtfully to my dear children, echoing the words of that American couple, "Do you guys realize how lucky you are? You have visited some of the most amazing places: Venice, Rome,...." And before I could remind them of the other incredible trips we had taken, James piped up with, "Well, we haven't been to Greece." Took the wind right out of my sails. I just plopped down in my seat, sighed, and took another bite of my coffee gelato.

We lucked out again and were immediately assigned seats on the next flight to Frankfurt. As we waited, I turned to David and said with a pout, "You know, no one made any comments to us on our family." Italians love children, but have one of the lowest birthrates in Europe. In Rome, we had gotten several comments on our four children. And then, boarding began. David handed our tickets to the Italian Lufthansa employee, a middle-aged man, who took one look at us and said, "Are these all your children? Bellisimo! What a beautiful family!" I met David's eye and smiled.

One interesting fact about our trip: from the time we left our house in Germany to when we arrived back on our doorstep the following day, the only time we had to show our passports to someone was when we checked into our hotel in Venice. When we exited the plane back in Frankfurt, two men were checking people's passports, but when they saw our big, beautiful family, they just waved us on. Too many passports to check, I guess.

But something I have found myself saying quite a bit lately is that as our kids get older, our family seem "less big." When I tell people we have four kids, their eyes widen and they say in disbelief, "Four? You have four kids?" I have to bite my lip now to keep from saying, "Four isn't really that many. Six or seven? That's a big family. But four? Not so much."

Flying over the Venetian Lagoon

The city of Venice

Back over the Alps

Arriving in Frankfurt. You can see how Germans live close together in towns separated by farmland, as opposed to in spread-out suburbs.

Wind turbines

Murano: This place is m-a-a-a-gical!

Leaving from Piazza San Marco

Leaving Venice for Murano, a neighboring island

Murano was very calm and quiet.

We caught the end of a glassmaking demonstration at one factory.

The glass is beginning to take shape

Finished product: a rearing horse

We had seen a beautiful black glass gondola in Venice and were hoping to find it for less money here on Murano. Alas, we didn't find one.  I settled for a cheap blue one, like those below.

Pieces of glass vary from very inexpensive to incredibly expensive. One awestruck American couple on their first trip outside the U.S., with whom I struck up a conversation at lunchtime were debating buying a set of 6 goblets--for $600. The wife gushed on and on about the goblets; her whole face just lit up. The husband just rolled his eyes. My input was, "You obviously are in love with these goblets. If you were to buy them back in the U.S., they would be so much pricier than they are here. And do you think you'll be coming back here anytime soon?....." I wish I knew if they ended up getting them.

The couple was also very interested in our ex-pat life and, as many people have done, told the kids how lucky they were to be able to travel to such amazing places and what a wonderful experience this was for the them....I have to admit that moving home to the U.S. and being "normal" again will be anti-climatic.

At one point walking along a canal, a woman exited a store, turned to her husband and said in American English and sounding just like a Disney princess, "This place is m-a-a-a-gical!" Once she was far enough away, the kids and I just howled and howled. It was so sweet, but she did sound just like Gisele from Enchanted. I told the kids, "I am so entitling my blog entry on Murano 'This place is m-a-a-a-gical!'"

We ate sandwiches in the shadow of The Church of Santa Maria e San Donato, one of oldest churches in the Venetian lagoon. Dating from 1040 AD, it is known for its twelfth century Byzantine mosaic pavement and is said to contain the relics of Saint Donatus of Arezzo as well as large bones behind the altar told to be bones of a dragon slain by the saint.

These glass souvenirs were some of my favorites, but, according to a shopkeeper, were works of a particular master on the island. Hence the high price. I'll have to make do with a photo.


Glass Madonna on the corner of a building