Wednesday, October 14, 2009

London Day Three: The Tower of London


View of the Tower of London, officially known as Her Majesty's Royal Palace and Fortress.

Construction first began on the Tower of London in 1078 by William the Conqueror. The Norman William had defeated the English Harold at the Battle of Hastings in 1066 and ordered the construction of many castles and keeps. These ensured effectively that the many rebellions by the English people or his own followers did not succeed. The British refer to him as William I, as he never conquered the City of London. It surrendered.


Making their way to the entrance along the fortress walls. The tower's primary function was a fortress, a royal palace, and a prison. It has also served as a place of execution and torture, an armory, a treasury, a zoo, the Royal Mint, a public records office, an observatory, and since 1303, the home of the Crown Jewels of the United Kingdom.


Kings and Queens stayed in the Tower until they were officially crowned, and then sometimes imprisoned and executed.


Rendering of the Tower in medieval times


Inside the walls of the mighty fortress


Many Tudor prisoners entered the Tower of London through Traitors' Gate, when it was a water entrance directly from the Thames. The accused were brought by barge along the Thames, passing under London Bridge, where the heads of recently executed prisoners were displayed on pikes, and into the Tower. Queen Anne Boleyn (Henry's second wife), Sir (Saint) Thomas More (one of Henry's counsellors) and Queen Catherine Howard (Henry's fifth wife), all entered the Tower by Traitors' Gate.


The Jewel House where the Crown Jewels are on view, though photography is not allowed. Through the magic of the internet, however...


...we can provide you with a sneak peek. Throughout the centuries, the Crown Jewels have been lost and never recovered from a mistimed tide (1200s), replaced by new items, stolen again (1300s) but recovered, melted down by Oliver Cromwell (1600s) after the monarchy was abolished and King Charles I was executed, and replaced 11 years later with some of the original gold and gems when the monarchy was restored.

The monetary value of the Crown Jewels is "incalculable," and therefore, they are uninsured. What insurance company would want to pay up if the jewels were stolen yet again?


Inside the Tower, raven cages to the right


Our tour guide, George, in the area of the Tower known as Tower Green, where executions were held. Yeoman Warders , or Beefeaters (it is believed centuries ago they were partly compensated with beef rations), began guarding the Tower in 1485; today there are 35 Yeomen Warders and one Chief Warder. It's not that easy to become a Yeoman. Yeoman Warders are required to have served in the armed forces with an honorable record for at least 22 years.

In principle they are responsible for looking after any prisoners at the Tower and safeguarding the British crown jewels, but in practice they act as tour guides and are a tourist attraction in their own right. The Yeoman Warders and their families live inside the fortress. The community of the Tower of London is made up of these Yeoman Warders and their families, the Resident Governor and officers, a chaplain and a doctor.

Just a few weeks after our return from London (yes, I am writing this after the fact -- shocking, I know), the Yeoman Warders made news all over the world, and not for the best of reasons.


In 2007, Moira Cameron, a veteran of long military service, became the first female Yeoman Warder in the history of the institution. Hers was supposed to be a happy story about how a bastion of male supremacy could become a place where women, too, could serve queen and country.

In early November, embarrassed Tower officials conceded that Cameron had apparently been subjected to a campaign of bullying and harassment conducted by some of her resentful male colleagues. They said two male warders have been suspended and a third is under investigation for suspected harassment of Cameron. The Sun newspaper reported that Cameron's uniform had been defaced and that "nasty" notes had been left in her locker. In addition, the newspaper said that Cameron's Wikipedia entry had been defaced as part of the campaign against her.

Our guide, George, is the third man to her left in the above picture. I have not been able to find the names of those Yeomen who were accused, and we're hoping George wasn't among them.


Can you make out the ravens on the weather vane? It had been thought that there have been at least six ravens in residence at the tower for centuries. Legend states that if the ravens ever leave the Tower of London, the monarchy, and the entire kingdom would fall. One Yeoman Warder has the specific role of Ravenmaster at the Tower and takes care of their feeding and well being (and keeps their wings clipped). To ensure that there are always six ravens at the Tower, the Ravenmaster keeps ten.


Emilie in front of a very fancy drinking fountain. Those timber-framed lodgings you see behind her were commissioned by Henry VIII, primarily for the comfort and enjoyment of his second wife, Anne Boleyn, as she awaited her coronation in 1533.


Another tour guide


Construction of the White Tower, the oldest part of the Tower of London, began in 1078 under the orders William the Conqueror. He ordered the Tower to be built of Caen stone, which he had specially imported from France.


This memorial, erected in 2006, is intended to remember all those who were executed at the Tower, with particular reference to the seven famous figures who were beheaded here and three soldiers known to have died on Tower Green. Nobles were given the privilege of being executed within the walls of the Tower: they were spared insults from jeering crowds, and the monarch was spared bad publicity. Among others, two of Henry VIII's wives and a grandniece were executed. The glass pillow has the imprint of the side of a head on it. Did I mention one of Henry's wives was only 20 and his grandniece, Lady Jane Grey -- the Nine Day Queen -- was only 16 at the time of their executions?


You are probably familiar with Anne Boleyn, Henry's second wife, who was beheaded by a French executioner's sword. She had been found guilty of adultery, incest with her brother, and high treason (plotting the king's death with her "lovers"). It is widely believed that what Anne was most guilty of was not producing a male heir and losing the king's favor to Jane Seymour.

You may not be as familiar with Margaret Pole, the Countess of Salisbury. It is believed she was executed on Tower Green at the age of 68 simply for being the mother of a cardinal who had led a Catholic opposition against Henry VIII's break with Rome, and for being the last legitimate member of the Plantagenet dynasty, a rival royal family.

According to some accounts, on the day of her execution, a frail and ill Lady Salisbury, was dragged to the block, but refused to lay her head on it, having to be forced down. As she struggled, the inexperienced executioner's first blow made a gash in her shoulder rather than her neck. Ten additional blows were required to complete the execution. A less reputable account states that she leapt from the block after the first clumsy blow and ran, pursued by the executioner, being struck eleven times before she died. It is said she was hacked to death. It's always those "less reputable" accounts that people remember as the truth.


Another building inside the Tower


The walls of the White Tower are now home to displays from the Royal Armouries, including original armours worn by Henry VIII in the "Dressed to Kill" exhibit. Along with the Tower's historic instruments of torture, you can see...


...one of the infamous blocks and axes.


England has been celebrating the 500th anniversary of Henry VIII accession to the throne with exhibits all over the country. The success of the series The Tudors hasn't hurt either.


And "Dressed to Kill" is an apt title. Henry had tens of thousands of people put to death, with some historians putting the figure as high as 72,000 .

Here, too, was an exhibit entitled "Hands on History!" The kids had a chance to "get to grips with the Tower's arsenal and ten centuries of Tower history." They got to try on a gauntlet, lift a musket, draw a bow and handle a sword as they explored the different roles of the Tower over the centuries. Alas, photography was not allowed.


One of the Tower's Ravens. Do you think it's Gwylum, Thor, Hugin, Munin, Branwen, Bran, Gundulf, Baldrick, Fleur or Colin?


The Bloody Tower, named after the legend that two young imprisoned princes were murdered there in the early 15th century.


In 1674, the skeletons of two children were discovered under the staircase leading to the chapel, during the course of renovations to the White Tower. At that time, these were believed to have been the remains of the two princes. The remains were reburied in Westminster Abbey. In 1933, the grave was dug up and found to contain both human and animal bones; however precise identification of the age and gender was not then possible. The fate of the Princes remains a mystery.

The Tower of London has developed a reputation as being one of the most haunted places in Britain.


A Governor of the Tower of London lived in The Queen’s House on Tower Green with his family from 1994-2006. Major General Geoffrey Field reported the following:

"Soon after we’d arrived in 1994, my wife Janice was making up the bed in the Lennox room when she felt a violent push in her back which propelled her right out of the room! No one had warned us that the house was haunted – but we then discovered that every resident has experienced something strange in that room! The story goes that the ghost is that of Arbella Stuart, a cousin of James I, who was imprisoned and then possibly murdered in that bedroom. Several women who slept there since have reported waking in terror the middle of the night feeling they were being strangled, so just in case we made it a house rule not to give unaccompanied female guests the Lennox room."

And another ghost story: At least two bears have lived at the Tower, and both were the first of their kind to be seen in England. Henry III was given a polar bear in 1251 as a gift from the king of Norway. The bear was given a long chain so that it could fish in the Thames. In 1811, the Hudson Bay Company gave a grizzly bear to George III. The bear was called ‘Old Martin’ and after many years at the Tower he moved to the new London Zoo in Regent’s Park, where he eventually died in 1838.

Legend has it that many years ago a huge ghostly bear appeared by the Martin Tower, scaring a guard so badly that he dropped dead of shock.

Other ghosts are said to haunt the Tower, including those of the two missing princes, Anne Boleyn, Margaret Pole, Sir Walter Raleigh, Lady Jane Grey and her husband Guilford. In fact, Lady Jane was seen by two guardsmen in 1957. There have also been many reports apparitions with no distinct form that have rattled the Yeomen. To this day, there are certain areas of the Tower the guardsmen will not enter after sundown.

London: Day Three: London Bridge

Yesterday, we finally made it back to our apartment after our l0-hour Harry Potter tour and picked up Kentucky Fried Chicken at Mottingham's business strip (there was gravy but no mashed potatoes or biscuits). But all along, it was apparent Becca wasn't feeling great. On the train ride home, her frequent coughs drew concerned looks from the other passengers.

This morning, she had a fever and didn't look like she could handle a day of sightseeing. Taking into account that I had already visited most of the places on today's plan during previous visits to London, I volunteered to stay home with Becca. All was not lost. Venturing out to find some medicine, I found a huge supermarket and got teary as I walked around it. It was more like an American supermarket than the German ones are and there were items there that I could not find in Germany, such as Cheerios, Sun Chips, bagels, Taste of Lime Doritos, Fig Newtons among others. I bought as much as I could stuff into the basket of Becca's stroller and carry on my shoulder, and felt better about not being able to join the others on their busy day.


The first item on the itinerary was to cross Tower Bridge, as Bridget Jones did every morning and evening in Bridget Jones' Diary.


Walking to the bridge, the Nylund tour group passed City Hall which opened in 2002. The building has an unusual bulbous shape, intended to reduce its surface area and thus improve energy efficiency.


More interesting modern architecture. England's own Prince Charles has been a vocal opponent of non-traditional modern architecture for decades. He once said, "You have to give this much to the Luftwaffe (German Air Force): when it knocked down our buildings it did not replace them with anything more offensive than rubble. We did that."


Emilie keeping a modern sculpture from toppling over


And guess who they should see being interviewed but English business magnate and adventurer Richard Branson, or more correctly Sir Richard Charles Nicholas Branson.


The kids were disappointed to see the London skyline dominated by construction cranes.


Grandma and Grandpa on Tower Bridge. The bridge is a young one, only 115 years old. Now an undoubted landmark, early 20th century critics wrote overwhelmingly negative opinions such as "It represents the vice of tawdriness and pretentiousness, and of falsification of the actual facts of the structure."


View of the Tower of London from Tower Bridge with the missile-shaped Swiss Re Building (popularly referred to as the Gherkin) in the background.


Battleships on display

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

London Day Two: Harry Potter Tour -- London


Back in London, we were in the homestretch of our tour. King's Cross rail station was the first stop.


The station has had to learn to deal with Harry Potter enthusiasts and posted this helpful sign on where to find Platform 9¾, where young witches and wizards catch the Hogwarts Express.




We didn't have a Hogwarts ticket, but we still wanted to give it a try.


Emilie making her way onto Platform 9¾. Harry Potter fans were driving the station workers crazy crashing luggage trolleys into the actual archway used in the films, so the station had this little photo op built to placate them.


Percy showing how it's done in Sorcerer's Stone


Someday, Rebecca will appreciate having this photo.


The footbridge in King's Cross where Hagrid leaves Harry in Sorcerer's Stone and also where...


...members of the Order in Order of the Phoenix escort Harry to the Hogwarts Express, was demolished as part of King's Cross renovations.


Above us you can see the little that remains of that footbridge. This is also where Harry dreams of seeing....


...He-who-must-not-be-named while on his way to Hogwarts in Order of the Phoenix.


James' trolley just disappeared when we snapped this photo. This is the actual archway used in Sorcerer's Stone and Chamber of Secrets.


Micaela refused to pose for this picture until we told her that we will never again have this opportunity.


Desperate pleas did me no good. I could not get onto Platform 9¾. It's all Dobby's fault. Next to me you can see part of an obstruction put there to keep Potterphiles from smashing luggage trolleys into the archway...


...just like the Boy-who-lived himself did in Chamber of Secrets.


Ron flies the blue Ford Anglia not by King's Cross in Chamber of Secrets,...


...rather by St. Pancras Rail Station, located right across the street.


In Sorcerer's Stone, Harry and Hagrid walk through Leadenhall Market, a covered market, on their way to the Leaky Cauldron. The market dates back to the fourteenth century and stands on what was the center of Roman London.



As Gordon led us through the market, I turned my head, squealed, and snapped this very bad photo. Gordon told me I was getting ahead of myself. Do you see anything familiar?


Leadenhall Market is located on Gracechurch Street, a street mentioned in Pride and Prejudice as the home of Lizzy and Jane's aunt and uncle. A twofer!


This dragon fixture commemorates St. George and his victory over his fire-breathing enemy. St. George is the patron saint of England, but we've seen statues of him all over Germany as well.


St. George's emblem, a red cross on a white background, is the flag of England, and part of the British flag. And it decorated a barrier in Leadenhall Market right below the dragon.



What had caught my attention earlier was the entrance to the Leaky Cauldron from Sorcerer's Stone. In the film, the woodwork around the door is black, not blue like it is today. The kids were fatigued at this point and tired of posing for pictures.


Gordon pointed out Bridget Jones' flat as we drove to the next location.


Here is the entrance to the Leaky Cauldron from Prisoner of Azkaban. The double-decker Knight Bus would not fit in Leadenhall Market, so the film makers used this nondescript spot instead.




Couldn't get anyone to pose in front of the Leaky Cauldron at this point.


We walked past the modern Globe Theatre (one of the few buildings in London allowed to have a thatched roof -- new thatched roofs were forbidden in London by the Normans in the 12th century to reduce the risk of fire.).


The London Millennium Footbridge is destroyed by Deatheaters at the beginning of Half-Blood Prince and Harry is escorted on broomstick down the Thames by members of the Order in Order of the Phoenix.

 

And that was the end of our Harry Potter tour. Believe it or not, there were many other places we could have visited -- such as the Reptile House of the London Zoo where Harry first unknowingly speaks Parseltongue; Australia House which was used as Gringott's Bank; Oxford's Bodleian Library doubled as Hogwart's library; Westminster Underground Station where Mr. Weasley does his best muggle impression; the corner that served as the entrance to the Ministry of Magic in Order of the Phoenix, though the phone booth was only put there temporarily for the movie; the list just goes on. Still, we didn't do too badly, did we?