Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Salzburg, Saltmines and Marionettes

After a quick lunch and with still a lot left on our schedule, David and I decided to divide and conquer. He left with Micaela and James to do a tour of a local saltmine and I tried to think of something to do with Emilie and Rebecca while we waited for the 5:00pm marionette show we had tickets for. David had suggested a horsedrawn carriage tour. Sounded nice and relaxing to me.

Taking in the lovely sounds of an Irish harp. I did mention that it was the Celts who first settled here, didn't I?

Back at Residenzplatz, this is a bad picture of the fountain film-Maria splashes in when she's leaving Salzburg. There was lots of construction going on, making taking pictures a bit difficult.

Getting ready for our short tour of the Altstadt

Unfortunately, our tour guide did not speak much English. Fortunately, I understood enough German for us to get by.

View of the fortress over some booths that were set up for a market of some kind

The Wilde Mann (in English Wild Man, see German isn't that tough! Ha, ha.) statue. I've had trouble finding information on this statue, but he is apparently from the early 17th century and has an interesting history. He is said to stand perfectly still all year long. Only at 12:00 on Good Fridays does he take a second to move -- turning around in a circle to "shake the sillies out," if you will, so that he can stand still another 12 months. Many Salzburgers say they have witnessed this phenomenon, while other say they have stared at him fixedly at the appointed hour and saw nary a twitch. At one time he used to converse with Salzburgers, but since he was moved from his original home where he could view the Salzach River, he is so angry that he now refuses to speak.

Bex enjoying the tour immensely. It started to pour, and I mean pour, almost as soon as our tour ended, so, with Emilie in the stroller with Bex on her lap covered with one umbrella and I lucky enough to have brought along another, we made our way toward the marionette theatre, even though we would be three hours early for the show. I just wanted to be somewhere close to the theatre while I figured out what else we could do in pouring rain.

We settled on the cold, hard inside steps of the theatre to wait out the rain. And so we sat, for two-and-a-half hours, as the downpour continued. Becca took a nap on my lap and I don't know how Emilie amused herself for over two hours, but she did. The rain never let up enough for it to make sense for us to venture outside again. Finally, it was show time.

What better show to see in Salzburg than The Sound of Music.

Detail inside the theatre

Can you guess what song Fräulein Maria is singing here?

The production was a combination of the original Broadway musical and the film. For example, the Captain, Max and Elsa the Baroness sing the Broadway song There's No Way to Stop It, which is not part of the film version. In that song, Max and Elsa argue with the Captain about the imminent Anschluss, trying to convince him that he must compromise, because it is inevitable. The Anschluss, or German takeover of Austria, was a strange moment in the production. Nazi soldiers were at first portrayed by 2-dimensional cutouts of Doberman Pinschers in Nazi uniforms. But then an actual man in a Nazi uniform appeared on the stage, sweeping up the confetti left behind from Maria and the Captain's wedding ceremony, symbolically sweeping away old Austria. By this point, your eye had adjusted to the size of the marionette stage, with the puppets in perfect proportion to it. Suddenly seeing an actual human on stage was like seeing an honest-to-goodness giant appear. There was a bit of nervous laughter from the audience.

For the encore, the marionettes performed The Lonely Goatherd and a mirror popped down, allowing us to see how the puppeteers worked their magic. And yes, the puppets puppeted other puppets.

Meanwhile, David took Micaela and James to the Berchtesgaden salt mines, which have been in operation since 1517. Salt was considered one the areas most precious resources, was even referred to as “white gold” and gave Salzburg its name.

The salt deposit in this mountain is estimated to be about 300 meters deep, and the current mine has 5 different levels. The salt is extracted by drilling a deep shaft down into depths of the mountain, pumping fresh water down the shaft to dissolve the salt-laced rock and then pumping the briny water back up to the surface to be evaporated and purified into table salt. A large cavern is eventually formed as the water dissolves more and more of the salt-laden rock. Each shaft takes about 30 years to completely process and yields over 1.300.000 m³ of salt over its lifetime.

David, Micaela and James first had to don miner’s uniforms, making them look a bit like modern-day Oompa-Loompas and were then able to ride a little train deep into the mountain.

Visitors got so see how the salt was extracted, slide down wooden rails to lower levels, and ride a raft across a subterranean salt lake. They even got to sample the salty water from they lake they had just traversed, which was pronounced "Ewwww!" by Micaela and James. They had a great time and got a souvenir sample of salt from the mine to boot!

A morning tour of Salzburg

To walk from our hotel to the old section of the city, we needed to pass through the Siegmundstor, the tunnel through Mönchsberg, one of the five mountains in Salzburg.

The tunnel let us out at the horse bath, which is featured briefly in The Sound of Music.

The medieval equivalent of today's car wash.

Collegiate Church, built in the late 17th century

There was a farmers market set up in the square in front of the church.

St. Michael victorious over a creepy demon

Entering the shopping district

On one side of the street was a Christmas store.....

..... and on the opposite side was an Easter store.

In the Residenzplatz, with the Salzburg Cathedral behind them

Mozart statue

Mozartkugeln are chocolate and marzipan-flavored candies. They have beautiful wrappings, but neither David nor I care for them.

Dressmaker shop sign

Getreidegasse, the main shopping street

Another store sign. I can't get enough of them.

Mozart's birthplace, in the middle of the busy shopping area

Bex' recognizes the name Mozart and some of his music from her Baby Einstein Mozart DVD.

Mozart began composing music at five years of age. How tragic that he died at only 35.

Americans making an effort to fit in

Dirndl sighting on the bridge over the Salzach River. Salz is the German word for salt, which was transported down this river from the nearby saltmines for centuries. Ach is an old Celtic word for river. The Celts were the first settlers in the area. Our Sound of Music tour guide told us that's why Austrians tend to have sunnier personalities than other German-speaking peoples.

The Hohensalzburg Fortress, one of the largest medieval castles in Europe, was never really used. Construction started in 1077 on the Festungsberg hill and the fortress was so foreboding, nobody attacked the town for a thousand years. The city was never taken by force, but when Napoleon stopped by, Sazburg wisely surrendered.

Monday, July 6, 2009

Hellbrunn Castle

In the early 1600, Markus Sittikus von Hohenems, prince-archbishop of Salzburg, built Hellbrunn Castle outside the city as a summer residence.

Bex and David waiting for our tour of part of the grounds. This would be no ordinary tour. Sittikus apparently had a keen sense of humor and enjoyed practical jokes.

If you look closely, you can see that the boys at this table are getting sprayed by little fountains. But that's not the whole picture. Our tour guide told the boys beforehand that they had to stay in their seats with their hands on the table and could not move, no matter what. After all, this was a table where the Archbishop entertained guests and you could not get up from your seat unless the Archbishop did first.

The boys did seem to be whooping and hollering more than seemed necessary from the trick fountains that suddenly sprung up from the center of the table and from behind their seats.

Only once the tour guide allowed the boys to leave did the rest of us see that there was a stream of water shooting up the center of every seat -- every seat, that is, save the Archbishop's. And his guests could not move until the Archbishop did first.

And so the tour continued, past gardens and statues and you never knew when jets of water would suddenly burst to life and spray you. It made photographing a big tricky.

There were many moving figurines, as well, and all the fountains and figures were water-powered by the flow of a nearby stream.

David had Emilie and Rebecca wear raincoat, but none of the kids knew that we would be seeing the famous trick fountains of Hellbrunn when we arrived for the tour.

In this grotto, a crown was pushed up and down by a jet of water, symbolizing the rise and fall of power. It should be noted that at all of these "games" there is always a spot which is never wet: that was where the Archbishop stood or sat, which is today occupied by the tour guide.

Em and James trying to figure out the exact moment to leave the grotto.

Micaela taking her chances

James getting surprised by yet another hidden jet. The video of this tour consists of me saying things like, "Oh, look at that......AHHHHHHHHH! I'm getting soaked!"

Another feature was the mechanical, water-operated and music-playing theatre built in 1750 showing various professions at work.

James and Em

Water even shot out of the antlers and nose of this buck head.

We took a tour of the gardens as we waited for our clothes to dry. Thank goodness the rain had stopped earlier and it was much warmer by now than it was during the Sound of Music Tour.

James tossing Bex to the fish

And there was a playground on the property. Here we hummed the theme from Raiders of the Lost Ark as James leapt from one train car to the next. He met two local boys at the park who asked for his phone number as we left and said, "You should call us the next time you're in Salzburg."

Em doing an imitation of a statue. The Sixteen going on Seventeen gazebo is right across the field from the playground.

Micaela bounced on one end of the tarp bridge and Em flew up on the other

Em's a great big sister.