Monday, July 21, 2008

Triberg and the Black Forest

Today we drove through quite a bit of the beautiful Black Forest in southwestern Germany. We were searching for the ski lift that would take us to the top of the Feldberg, the forest's highest peak, but, alas, could not find it. We enjoyed the drive all the same.

The Black Forest region is blessed with a particularly rich mythological landscape. It is said to be haunted by werewolves, sorcerers, witches and the devil in differing guises. Helpful dwarves try to balance the scales. They must have all been napping when we were there.

The Adlerschanze ski-jump was built in 1924 here in Hinterzarten. The cool weather today (probably in the 50s) and a little bit of shivering made it a bit easier to picture this area covered in snow.
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The last stop on our trip was the town of Triberg im Schwarzwald (Triberg in the Black Forest). This area is known for wood-carving, in particular cuckoo clocks. The selection in this store was mind-boggling. We hope someday to buy an authentic German cuckoo clock, but couldn't come close to making a decision today.

We visited a folk museum that has Europe's largest barrel organ collection.

Emilie liked this lady's hat which could be a variation of the traditional Bollenhut. Bollenhut usually have enormous red pompoms (if you're unmarried, black if you are) and is the hat that many female figurines wear on cuckoo clocks.

Thank goodness the clocks were all set to different times in the museum, so that we didn't have to wait 50 minutes to see a cuckoo.

One item at the museum where we didn't need to say, "No touch!"

Triberg is also famous for its waterfalls. The brochure claimed that these falls are the tallest in Germany, but my research has shown them to be the second tallest.

You can buy peanuts here to feed the squirrels. This was the only squirrel we found to feed. Squirrels in Germany are usually red.


Leaving Triberg, we happened upon the World's Largest Cuckoo Clock. This is not it. We thought it was. The actual Cuckoo Clock was on the other side of the building. Check out the pompoms on the ladies' hats.

This is the World's Largest Cuckoo Clock.

Sunday, July 20, 2008

Freiburg im Breisgau

We left Strasbourg this morning, within 5 minutes had crossed the Rhine River and were immediately back in Germany. We stopped in the small town of Kehl, where the grownups enjoyed a cup of coffee in the square while the kids played on a playground. Our French breakfast earlier consisted of croissants and baguettes eaten with butter and cheese while sitting on a cold stone wall near the train station. Not what I was hoping for (nothing beats dipping a buttered slice of baguette into a steaming bowl of café-au-lait), but the French cafés were not open yet and it was either that, or breakfast at McDonald's. A cappuccino in Kehl helped cool my acute disappointment.


You never know what you're going to find at a European playground. In Strasbourg, it was wooden sculptures to climb on, here in Kehl, it's a big mosquito to slide down.

Our next stop was Freiburg, located on the western edge of the Black Forest. This is the Martinstor (Martin's Gate), one of the the two remaining old city gates and part of Freiburg's original fortifications built at the beginning of the 13th century. On our next visit, we'll look for the tablet mounted on the tower in 1988 in memory of the numerous victims of the witch hunts. Among the victims named are three Freiburg women who were convicted in 1599 of being witches and beheaded.

Click on the photo to see what eating establishment is located on its right.

We made our way directly to the Cathedral square or Münsterplatz to grab a bite to eat.

St. George, Freiburg's patron saint, adorns a fountain in the square.

The Historisches Kaufhaus, or historical marketplace, is a Renaissance building constructed between 1520 and 1530 which was once the center of the financial life of the region. Its façade is decorated with the coat of arms of the Habsburgs.

The Münster, a gothic gathedral constructed of red sandstone, built between 1200 and 1530. The Freiburg Münster is noted for its towering spire.

David and James climbed up to the cathedral's bell tower.

View from the cathedral of the Schwabentor, the other old city gate.

James doing a pretty good imitation of a hamster at the playground as we made our way to the Schlossberg, the mountain at the edge of city that we had every intention of hiking up.

After an arduous climb up to the top of the Schlossberg, there was still this tower to climb to get the best view.

Grandma, Rebecca and I were quite impressed with the view of the countryside from the ground, thank you very much, so we opted to rest a while. That's us, those tiny little specks down below.

View of Freiburg

Making our way back to the car, we came across this ring of amusing fountains.


What we wouldn't have given to see these fountains running.



The inner city is crisscrossed by small canals or Bächle running along the streets. These canals are constantly flowing with water diverted from the Dreisam River and used to be the irrigation system of medieval Freiburg. No, they were never used for sewage, as such usage could lead to harsh penalties, even in the Middle Ages. Legend has it that anyone stepping (or tripping) into a Bächle is deemed to stay in Freiburg and marry a Freiburger.

Detail on the corner of a house

Saturday, July 19, 2008

Strasbourg, France

Grandma and Grandpa returned yesterday from their Finland trip where they visited with family and did some sightseeing. We gave them a little time to rest, but it was off today on our three-day trip to see some new areas of France and Germany. Grandma and Grandpa have been many places in the world, but never France.

We got a late start, though, when we showed up at the car rental office in the middle of the city to pick up our van (so we could all ride together) and they didn't have the van we reserved there. I don't think the agent would have gotten it if we had quoted Jerry Seinfeld to her:

Jerry: I don't understand. Do you have my reservation?
Rental Car Agent: We have your reservation, we just ran out of cars.
Jerry: But the reservation keeps the car here. That's why you have the reservation.
Rental Car Agent: I think I know why we have reservations.
Jerry: I don't think you do. You see, you know how to take the reservation, you just don't know how to hold the reservation. And that's really the most important part of the reservation: the holding. Anybody can just take them.

We lost almost two hours driving to the other side of Frankfurt to pick up another van at a different location, but in the end, we got the van we needed. Then it was a two-hour drive to Strasbourg, in the Alsace region of France. We didn't have time to plan out this trip, so we just went with the flow and it did take us a while to figure out what exactly we were going to and where we were going to stay.

The kids enjoyed the songs of this music box as we made our way to the cathedral.

You're wandering through the old part of Strasbourg, admiring the old buildings, picking up some French-language Harry Potter books at a stand, turn a corner and then, to quote Emeril LaGasse, BAM! A huge, beautiful 15th century cathedral suddenly comes into view.

Here at the cathedral, we boarded a tram to tour the old part of the city which helped us figure out what part of town to visit on foot. It poured during out tram ride, but the great part of that was that when we were dropped back off at the cathedral, the gargoyles were doing their thing.




The sun came back and the rain stopped in time for our leisurely walk, which started at the cathedral. Strasbourg Cathedral which began undergoing construction in the 12th century, was completed in 1439 (though only the north tower was built) and became the World's Tallest Building (until 1874), surpassing the Great Pyramid of Giza. A few years later, Johannes Gutenberg created the first European moveable type printing press here.

The Maison Kammerzell, an ornate and well preserved medieval building located in the cathedral square, is one of the most famous buildings of Strasbourg.

The cathedral was situated so close to other building, that getting a good shot of it was difficult.

Double-decker merry-go-round

There were only a few spots taken on the whole merry-go-round, but these French kids insisted on riding on this spinning do-hickey with Micaela, James and Emilie.

Lovely bakery sign

Grandma and Grandpa posing in front of la Maison des Tanneurs in the charming Petite-France section of town.

The name "Petite-France" was conferred by the former German inhabitants because of the numerous prostitutes working there in the Middle Ages — prostitution used to be known in Germany as "the French business".

A quiet moment near the Barrage Vauban, a defensive dam built on the river Ill in the seventeeth century.

Two of the four defensive towers that help make up the the medieval bridge Ponts Couverts (Covered Bridges) spanning the Ill.

We weren't sure if they were playing pétanque or boule lyonnaise

"You are the sunshine of my life...."

This playground was full of wooden sculptures to climb and sit on.


In this pose, Micaela reminded me of Manet's famous (and controversial) Olympia.


We enjoyed the mix of French and German cultures here and now understand why so many people put Strasbourg at the top of their "Not to be missed" list.