Saturday, June 7, 2008

Junior Year Abroad Revisited -- Marburg

Only an hour away is the city of Marburg, where David spent his junior year abroad through Millersville University, our alma mater. He had not been back since and wanted to show the kids where he had studied. When I was secretary of the Foreign Language Department at Millersville after graduation, I often had contact with the Marburg Study Abroad Program, so I was eager, too, to finally visit the town.

Marburg has survived as a relatively intact Gothic town because it was an extreme backwater between 1600 and 1850 with no money to spend on new architecture or expansion. It is now known as a university town. Marburg is dominated from the high hill by the castle and from below by St. Elisabeth's Church.

St. Elisabeth's Church is one of the earliest purely Gothic churches in German-speaking areas and was consecrated in 1283. However, the towers were not finished until 1340.

St. Elisabeth of Hungary's childhood is typical of many girls born into royalty. She was born in Hungary in 1207 and at age 4, was brought to the court of the Rulers of Thuringia in Central Germany, to become a future bride in order to reinforce political alliances between the families. We have heard many times how young girls were often separated from their families and sent to live in the court of their future husbands to assure their loyalty and the acceptance by the locals there.

Elisabeth was married at the age of 14, widowed at 20, relinquished her wealth to the poor, built hospitals where she herself attended to the sick, and became a symbol of Christian charity in Germany and elsewhere after her death at the age of 24.

She is perhaps best known for the legend which says that while she was taking bread to the poor in secret, her husband asked her what was in the pouch; Elisabeth opened it and the bread had turned into roses.

Tombs of Elisabeth's descendants. Sculptures of fully-clad knights lay atop many of the tombs. Click on the picture for a closeup of the knights in the right corner.

These two little ones at the foot of a golden Holy Family Altar reminded me of Emilie and Rebecca.

Call Child Protective Services! Several neglectful parents left their sleeping babies outside a smaller church while attending services! Another case of "You would never see this in America."

Horse sculptures meant to be climbed on



During lunch at a café, David pointed out the route he and his college buddies would take when enjoying a night on the town.

The University of Marburg was founded in 1527 and is the world's first and oldest Protestant university. Two of its most famous students were the Brothers Grimm, who collected many of their fairy tales here – Rapunzel's Tower stands in Marburg, and across the Lahn hills, in the area called Schwalm, little girls' outfits included a red hood.

That white building David is pointing to is the university dormitory where he lived. Classes were held down in the city, so everyday, often in the cold rain, students would hike down the steep hillside and after classes, would hike back up again.

It was an arduous climb up to the castle.





In front of the castle was this camera obscura, a pinhole camera and predecessor to our modern day cameras. In the 4th century B.C., Aristotle described how the image of the stars in the evening sky could be projected onto a screen through a small opening. This camera obscura's optical system uses only a lens and a mirror (no electricity or computer parts).


We all stood in this dark shed as our guide positioned the mirror and projected a crystal clear moving image of the castle onto the white table in front of us. He was able to change the image by moving the mirror and we marveled at the clarity of the "picture" in front of us. Our guide informed us that no camera found today has this resolution. James held out his hand and people who were walking in front of the castle strolled across his palm. David stretched his arm across the image so that the castle clock shown above his hand and asked us, "How do you like my wrist watch?" He may have stolen one of the guide's favorite jokes.

There are fewer than 25 such devices in the world, several in the U.S. and if you ever see one, it's an experience not to be missed.

This boar drinking fountain provided some much needed cool refreshment.

David has fond memories of the Hinkelstein, a "refreshment" establishment found in the basement of a 14th century stone house. It was usually the culminating point on a number of nightly treks into the city.

He was especially pleased to find that after 23 years, they still served their specialty, Altbierbowle, a dark German beer (Altbier) served with peaches in the bottom of the glass. It sounds less than appetizing, but is actually quite good.

St. George fighting the dragon tops a fountain in the square.


For centuries, the clock on the Town Hall is famous for signaling each passing hour with the simulated crow of a cock.

These types of stairs are common in Germany. One section on the side is built for pushing strollers, wheel chairs or bikes up and down the stairs.

Micaela thought this set of chairs and desks was provided for artists. We couldn't find out any information on them, though.

Ice cream seems to be the "naughty" dessert of choice for Germans. Who are we to argue with that?

We divided into two groups to ride the paddle boats on the Lahn River, David with Emilie and Rebecca and me with the other two.

I don't think I have ever laughed for 30 minutes straight like I did on our ride. Micaela and James were in front with the paddles with James doing the steering, and the fighting did not stop from the minute we left the dock until we got out of the boat again. At first we kept crashing into the dock, then into some ducks and trees and almost into other boaters and my yelling at James saying, "Steer, James!" and his yelling back, "How? I don't know how!" made everything worse.

Once James got a better handle on the steering and I sat back and lost my fear of getting kicked out of the boat and having everyone laugh at us, the bickering between my two older children kept me in stitches. "James! Watch out for the tree!" "Micaela, I know what I'm doing! Don't stop paddling!" It just went on and on and was like listening to an Abbott and Costello routine. And I didn't have my video camera with me!

Sunday, June 1, 2008

Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Our last day with the our visitors saw us making the 2-hour drive south to Rothenburg, Germany's most well-preserved walled town and tourist mecca.

The Ploenlein, or 'little place,' one of the town's best "postcard shots."

A good bit of time was spent trying to shoo the kids out of the ubiquitous souvenir shops.

Posing along the wall

The male side of our group wanted to go to the Criminal Museum. Imagine our surprise, when, in the entrance way of the museum, we saw 2 Child Catcher wagons. The Vulgarian village scenes from Chitty Chitty Bang Bang were filmed here, and surely the terrifying image of the child catcher luring Jeremy and Jemima into his wagon has been seared into your memory. Could one of these wagons be the one used in the film? We're assuming yes. Compare and contrast for yourself.


"There are children here somewhere...I can smell them!"

Iron Maidens look like a medieval torture device, but the first one was not invented until the late 1700s. This Iron Maiden was used for punishment and people, usually women, would be locked in it for hours.

Other Iron Maidens, though, were not so harmless. They had small openings so that a torturer could interrogate their victim while piercing the body with sharp objects, eventually leading to the poor soul's death hours later from blood loss or asphyxiation.

Viewing thumb-screws and other torture devices.


View from the tower of the Rathaus (Town Hall) where you can see the town wall. Watch the end of Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory to see another aerial view of Rothenburg.

James showing off his personalized sword.

An ice cream cone was the perfect ending to a perfect day.

Saturday, May 31, 2008

Rhine River Cruise

Today we were up early for our Rhine River Cruise. We would board the boat in Rüdesheim which is less than a 1 hour drive away, and cruise up the river for 4 hours to Koblenz and then take the train back down to our cars.

The swans were really hoping for a tasty handout.

Here's our ship, complete with a little playground on the upper deck.

This is what the river cruises are all about: the many fortresses, palaces and villages built along the hillsides. Many of the castles we saw date back to the 11th century. There were also many vineyards along this section of the Rhine.

It was a very hazy morning and and we were hoping the view wouldn't be too obscured. Up on deck, it was chilly and windy.



Die Pfaltz, built at the beginning of the 14th century, is the only castle built in the middle of the river (for the purpose of levying tolls).

The little playground came in handy when the 4-hour cruise seemed to be 2 hours too long for the kids.

The Lorelei is a rock which soars some 120 meters above the water line. It is one of the narrowest parts of the river and a very strong current and rocks below the waterline have caused many boat accidents there. Lorelei is also the name of one of the beautiful Rhine Maidens who lured navigators of this river to their dooms with their alluring singing, much as the ancient Greek Sirens did. The name comes from the old German words "lureln" ("murmuring") and "ley" (rock) or "murmuring rock". The heavy currents, and a small waterfall in the area created a murmuring sound which was amplified by the special echo the rock produces and gave name to the rock itself. The murmuring is hard to hear today due to the urbanization of the area. At the very top of the cliff is a statue of the Lorelei herself.

OK, I'll admit it. I just couldn't resist giggling at this town's name, and neither could James, who repeated it several times during the day, albeit with a humorously strong American accent. "Hausen," by the way, means house.


James striking a rather Potteresque pose with a rather Hogwartseque fortress in the distance.


"I'm King of the World!"

This little blurb in the ship's menu caught David eye. "Family value special: For two adults and one child." We had a big chuckle over that. What are the chances, here in Germany which has the second lowest birth rate in all of Europe and is below replacement level, of having a family special for 2 adults and 4 children?

Lunch break



Our journey ended at 2,000-year old Koblenz. This area, where the Moselle and Rhine rivers meet is known as German corner (Deutsches Eck).

In 1897, a monument to Kaiser William I, mounted on a 14 meter high horse, was inaugurated at the corner. The monument stood till WW II, when the statue was destroyed by US artillery. In 1953, the monument was re-dedicated to German unity. "Re-dedicated" seems to be code for rebuilt after having been destroyed.

These two cuties were born just three weeks apart.